'Just Cause 3' patch update released: Crash issue fixed
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Just Cause 3 Patch 1.021 Fixes PC Desktop Crashing, Memory
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As before, we are dealing with the work of the Swedish band Avalanche Studios, known not only for this cycle, but also from Mad Max and Renegade Ops. The median time to onset of ARE on imaging was 7.2 months, with a range of 1.4–38.6. Trainer works for me, with patch I started the trainer after launching the game and waited until the explosion in the distance before pressing F1, options 1, 3, 4, 5, and 6, all function. I just checked the Pioneer website for the latest firmware and it is 1.021 but on my unit it reads 1.022 can someone tell me is this right.
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High Five Manual Press + San Fernando Valley Kush Yield Results (detailed stats, advice needed)
I've been trying to find a "sweet spot" in my High Five Manual Rosin Press (V2) and decided to take some measurements throughout the process to see what I can do to improve yields. Hoping this is helpful to anyone interested in the press, and also looking for any feedback or tips that you guys come up with. In case it's not obvious, I'm a bit of a newbie with plenty to learn.
Since this was my first attempt at trying to figure out yields, I probably took down more details than needed. Just trying to get a full picture. Getting right to it, here is the table, followed by a description of each column/measurement
StrainSan Fernando Valley Kush
PressHigh Five Manual Rosin Press (V2, 2000lb)
Parchment35lb Silicone PLUS from Black Label Paper Company
Press MethodWait 30 minutes between each change of temperature, 30 seconds total press: 10 seconds with minimal pressure, followed by 10 seconds of medium pressure (leaning on the bar with most of weight), followed by 10 seconds of full pressure (pressing down as hard as possible)
ScaleAWS Gemini-20, precision of 0.001g (all measurements are in grams), range of error seems to be ~0.004g
TemperatureReading w/ a laser heat gun and a grill thermometer, the actual plates seemed to be ~25 degrees cooler (+/- 5) than what the LCD displays. So for temps below that say 260, I'm estimating that to be ~230-240. Likewise, 220 in the chart, means ~190-200
|temp||flower (pre)||paper (clean)||paper (w/ rosin)||flower (post)||paper delta||flower delta||paper (scraped)||rosin||yield (low )||yield (high)||yield (actual)||efficiency (accuracy)|
TotalsTotal flower: 2.160g
Total Rosin: 0.355g
Total Yield: 16.44% (not great imo)
Columns / Measurement Descriptions
tempthe temperature as indicated by the High Five unit.
flower (pre)weight of flowerafter being pre-pressed in a garlic press by hand for ~6 seconds
paper (clean)weight of 2 parchment papers by themselves
paper (w/ rosin)weight of parchment + rosin (after being pressed, and removing the pressed flower)
flower (post)weight of flower after being pressed, and removed from parchment
paper deltadifference when subtracting weight of parchment, from parchment + rosin. This gives a very crude idea of how much rosin was pressed based on how much the weight of the parchment changed.
flower deltadifference when subtracting weight of pressed flower, from flower before being pressed. This gives an idea of how much weight the flower lost before/after being pressed.
paper (scraped)weight of paper after being scraped
rosinweight of actual rosin yield. This is found by weighing clean parchment, then scraping all of the rosin from the flower and putting it onto the clean parchment, then weighing again. I'm considering this the "actual" yield and the closest accurate measurement I can make of how much rosin was extracted from each flower puck
yield (low)This is a low-ball estimate of what the yield (percentage) should return. It's found by dividing the paper delta by the pre-pressed flower. In plain terms, it measures the weight of the rosin on the parchment compared to the original flower. It doesn't consider any of the parchment absorption or other waste lost during transfer or scraping, so even this low estimate could be higher than the actual yield (but hopefully not).
yield (high)This is the best possible yield, estimated by dividing the flower delta by the pre-pressed flower. This assumes that any weight lost by the flower before/after pressing will be 100% claimed as rosin (nothing lost to parchment, transfer, accidentally sticking your finger in it, et cetera)
yield (actual)Found by dividing the rosin obtained after scraping by the weight of the original flower
efficiencyThis gives an idea of how efficient the yield was, when comparing the actual yield to the best possible yield. It's found by dividing the weight of the rosin, by the flower delta (weight lost by the flower after being pressed). There are lots of factors that cause the efficiency to be less than 100% -- 100% efficiency (based on estimated yields) is likely impossible for the following reasons:
Challenges / Notesparchment quality - I have both 55lb and 35lb parchment (both Silicone ULTRA from Black Label Paper Co). For this experiment, I used 35lb for all of the presses. Compared to the 55lb, there is a HUGE difference in quality. The 35lb paper seems to allow rosin to be pressed all the way through, since I can see small beads of rosin come through the paper. It's also sticky to the touch and where the flower was, a translucent spot. This all indicates that the 35lb parchment is absorbing some of the rosin, and allowing it to pass through. The 55lb absorbed a tiny bit, but didn't let any rosin through at all.
scraping efficiency - still learning the best methods. sometimes the rosin is gooey, sometimes it's more flaky. I use an ice pack / box of frozen veggies to help scrape. If it's not cold enough, I can't scrape it, it just smudges it around or "whips" it. If it's too cold, the rosin will flake into shards and can go flying (a huge waste). So there's a bit of lost weight during that process itself
strain - the flower itself was slightly dry, and at least a few months old. Quality though, a solid 4/5 without question, even for a picky connoisseur
lost yield looks like I'm losing ~0.020 on each press to the 35lb parchment alone, based on the clean weight vs weight after scraping.
efficiency - unsurprisingly, higher temps had higher yields.. except for a complete anomaly--the biggest flower sample (0.25 vs the average of ~0.21) at the lowest temp (190-200) had just as much of a yield as the others. Might have just been an especially nice sample.
- What kind of best-scenario yields should I be looking for with this 2000lb manual press?
- What are the easiest/cheapest things I can do to improve yields? (press time, temperature, parchment, weight of flower to press, press techniques, etc.)
- What type of difference would I be seeing with something like a Rosin Bomb style electric press (5000lb+) or even something more industrial like a sasquatch?
- Should I be adding moisture to the flower before pressing (e.g. baby carrot in a jar)?
- Is there a better way to measure the actual heat of the press? Can/should I calibrate the unit at all?
Super hazy faux-Gose. Twice.
5 gal batch, it's a simple recipe split 2/3 wheat DME, 1/3 golden light DME. Steeped 1/2 lb acidulated malt with 1/2 lb pilsener malt while slowly bringing to a boil to give something halfway between a steep and a mash.
45 min boil, 1 oz Czech Saaz at 45, then at 7 min: 2 oz Glacier, 0.26 oz kosher salt, 0.23 oz freshly crushed coriander seeds. 2 Tbsp lactic acid added at bottling after 3 weeks in the fermenter.
OG 1.055, FG 1.021 (steady for the past 2 weeks), fermented in the basement at a steady 66F with 5 days at a fairly steady 71F upstairs after first hitting 1.021. Out of 25 batches this (and the first attempt at it) is the haziest beer I've made to date.
I did this same recipe a few months ago with the same result, the only difference being I used US-05 that time and S-33 this time (I kind of grabbed it at random from the store, not realizing it's notoriously difficult). I didn't change anything from the first try because I thought maybe it's a fluke in my process or something. The US-05 batch attenuated more (FG = 1.014) but was still just as hazy and didn't clear one lick after several months in the bottle. It's not chill haze, either - it's any temperature haze.
Additionally, the recipe is from a friend when we brewed it together last fall with great success. My SO really likes it - as do I - so I want to have it around. Last fall we brewed it at that friend's place with my equipment, but it fermented in his basement before being kegged for its debut party, where it was crystal clear.
No temp control, no Irish moss, no gelatin fining or cold crash... So I know there's more I could do but I'm curious why this recipe is turning out so darn hazy. I've had IPAs, Scottish ales, schwarzbiers, and saisons clear up very nicely from both extract and BIAB batches so it's not just my wonky system.
Any ideas? Thanks, folks!